Makeup and Accessories

As a Makeup Artist I am often asked to help out during the shoot...


Fix a hair here, a strap there, hold a light/shade or camera, make the model laugh, prevent the model from dying of thirst by providing a straw for her/him to drink from, and adjusting or enhancing wardrobe ...some would say that this should be the job of the stylist, but if someone asks me to pick a piece of jewelry for the shoot I would not say no...that would be silly and not very professional.


After so many "I do not have any, sorry" I got tired of feeling unprepared!


So aside from an emergency nail kit (no, I am not a manicurist), hairspray, brushes and curler (I am not a hairstylist) I also carry some "decorations" for the model to wear, just a small baggy with some decorations that can be used during a shoot.


Decoration Kit Must have:

• Some pieces of Fabrics (this is especially useful for nude shoot)
• a pair Scissors
• a box of Safety pins
• a few "fake" flowers
• A variety of Jewelry (not the expensive stuff your grandma gave you...unless you want to)

I always have an idea of what the shoot would be like: natural, fantasy/creative, fashion, wedding, body paint etc. Knowing what the shoot will be like helps me prepare the decoration baggy or and at time custom make some of the accessories.

One of my favorite spots for jewelry is Johanna Gatdula Designs, here I can have custom made pieces, re-enhance old pieces, buy new styles, and all without breaking my bank!

So there I am now prepared for anything!!!

Nibbles

18 Skin Commandments...

Skin...the largest Organ in our body... and the one we women constantly obsess over.

We buy fancy product, have expensive treatments put ourselves in little dark rooms all in the hope to fight "the wrinkle".

I often speak to women that believe that "brand" and "price" will somehow ward off wrinkles, is Coco Chanel really so much better for you than CG? Maybe...maybe not. It depends on your skin, the quality of it, the texture and of course genetics.

So here are a few things to keep in mind when dealing with skin...My new 18 Commandments! There are probably more but so far these are the ones I believe are worth following.

1. Sunscreen

This is the best way to keep your skin from getting wrinkled, saggy, and speckled is sunscreen, I believe in using a minimum of SPF 30 for everyday, higher for a day outdoors.

Sunscreen should be Broad-spectrum formulas (meaning they shield against both UVA and UVB rays) with Mexoryl or Helioplex offer the longest-lasting protection.

This is for all skin types and colors...we all get sunburned!

Apply 30 min before leaving the house, and reapply if you stay out for longer than 4 hours.

2. Water!

Drinking plenty of water is key to keeping your body and your skin hydrated. Water in it's pure unsweetened form is the best thing for your skin. Soda, coffee, teas and even juices are not considered really water...make it a point to have a nice glass of water in the morning with your breakfast (room temperature water is best), and avoid drinking water 1 hrs before going to bed. We want to be hydrated not bloated! Check out the 10 rules of Waking up like a Star!

3. NO Smoking
OK think about this...if it makes your lungs black ...what does it do to your skin?

Smoking helps develop more deep wrinkles and blotchier skin tone. Gives you an ashy look, no youth shine here, and to complicate things, research published in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, has stated that every decade of smoking results in a perceived extra 2.5 years of age.

4. Little Alcohol

Moderation is key, if you drink more than one cocktail a day, and your skin suffers. Alcohol increases the level inflammatory agents in the bloodstream, what does it mean?? that in the long run it hasten skin sagging, this comes from Dr.Fredric Brandt, a dermatologist in New York City and Coral Gables, Florida.

5. Clean Makeup Brushes

You will ask why? I use them, they are mine, I do not share! That sounds good to me but...
Well how about, muddied colors, clogged pores, and bacterial infections? These are just a few thing that can happen by using dirty makeup brushes. Makeup Brushes (for personal use) should be cleaned at least every 3 weeks, there are plenty of product out there to do just that, or simply use a gentle shampoo and make sure you rinse them well. Alcohol will dry them up so if you really want to disinfect them, purchase a product or go online, there are tutorials on how to make your own brush cleaner.

6. Taking care of more than your face.
Skin care doesn't stop at your jawline! Neck, chest, hands are almost always exposed, and yet they rarely receive same level of hydration and sun protection as our faces. Bad part of this is that the skin there is more delicate and just as vulnerable to aging as our faces. What to do: The next time you apply serum, face cream, or sunscreen or give yourself an exfoliating treatment, extend everything down to your décolletage. You really do not want to have a wrinkly chest at 35!

7. Moles! Not the ones underground...the ones on your body!

Know where they are even the less obvious ones such as your on scalp, the soles of your feet, and under your nails. Have them checked by a Dermatologist once a year (especially as we get older and wiser). Check your moles every month and if anything changes...one grows hair or pops up overnight or something...call your Dr and get it checked.

8. Sleep More

This is not insomnia, I am talking about staying up late for no good reason and doing it often.

Lack of sleep cause stress, which can aggravate all skin conditions, including acne, eczema, etc.

Sleep is also helps your body repairs the damage from the day, by not sleeping enough (7 to 8hrs) the cell turn over process starts to slow down resulting in older more worned out and sallow skin.

9. No Sleeping with Makeup

OK the Hollywood stars do it in movies...they go to bed looking fabulous and wake up looking fantastic. But we do not do that...we wake up looking more like a high breed between a raccoon a blow fish and a frog! So think of this...letting skin marinate in makeup overnight and not to mention a day's worth of oil buildup, can lead to clogged pores and zits. To make things better your body temperature increases slightly when you sleep, that means that it enhances the absorption of whatever is on the surface of your skin. I think I would rather have night cream absorbed in my sleep than makeup.

10. Stop Zits Popping

It's as tempting a bobble rap for some of us. We see it we go for it. Simple but very very bad!
Why? Because popping, as tempting as it is, causes the bacteria to go deeper into the pores, causing inflammation, infection, and scarring. It's like giving zits a second life!

Going out there are getting the harshest chemicals in the bathroom won't help, either, treating any breakout with too much benzoyl peroxide damages the skin around the spot and can cause more irritation.

11. Eating Junk Food

You are what you eat!
Cut the junk fast food, grease stuff, and you can see an improvement in skin condition and acne in about six weeks. Hungry? have a snack like peanut butter, nuts, and avocado, fruits of any kind, taking in healthy fats provide nutrients for the hair, skin, nails, and basic metabolism.

12. Neglecting Your Eyes

The skin around your eyes thinner than practically anywhere else on the body, it's also the victim of a lot and lots of abuse.

Here is how:

1. Stop Rubbing!! Every time you rub your eyes, you risk breaking delicate blood vessels, this leads to darkening, dulling, and thickening of the surrounding skin.

2. Protect! Make sure you always apply an anti-aging eye cream. Chose on with retinol in it, if retinol is too strong, consider peptides, and or zinc, this increase elastin production, which can reduce crepiness! Beauty is the eye of the beholder...or just the eyes!

13. Be Wise with Products...or choosing theright ones.

There are plenty of books/tutorials/free web info on skin types, but somehow the shiny bottle and fancy packaging still takes precedence on wheter or not the products is good for your skin type. Learn your skin type you will be much happier choosing product that will work for you.

14. Cell phones

OK this sounds weird, but lets look at it for a moment...
Talking on the phone means resting your chin or cheek against it (cell or old-school), and that can lead to breakouts, whether or not the phone is clean and bacteria-free. Friction, occlusion, and heat, generated by the phone plastered to your ear can make you breakout. What to do? Talk less or get a headset...this will also save you money!

15. Over exfoliating
OK so we read/hear/see how supposedly exfoliating is good for you...well it is in moderation. Squeaky-clean pores may initially feel good, and the whole "baby's butt" thing is quite alluring, harsh cleansing or too much exfoliating can actually exacerbate oil production and worsen breakouts by spreading bacteria! If you "have to" exfoliate a gentle alternative would be to use a glycolic peel, three times a week.

16. Couch Potato

Exercise along with lifting your mood, increases blood flow to the skin. Increased blood flow will cause a healthy-looking flush. This happens almost instantly! And it improves over time, it has been shown to decrease tension and stress, which can result in better looking skin.

17. No Tanning

So we all saw Baywatch or at least heard of it...beautiful tanned women running around in perfect bodies with a red bikini...or whatever.

How do we mortals achieve that look...well Brozer, Self-tanner, pro-airbrush tan are all your friends. The real baking in the sun is not good for you, your mama told you, your Dr. told you, and now I am telling you. Get out of the sun lady!

What is a tan? To protect itself from continued exposure to the sun, skin thickens and produces melanin, the pigment that darkens cells. Pigment change from UVA or UVB light can cause premature aging and increase the likelihood of skin cancer! Tanning beds are even worse than laying in the sun, since they emit concentrated UVA light, which penetrates deeper than the combination of UVA and UVB rays found in sunlight!

So the moral of the story? Use Sun block and Avoid Tanning beds!

18. Products Overload

Skin care routine should be 3 steps...maybe 4. After that is toooo much!

Do not add products because you think are good or because you want to cut down time and deal with 2 or 3 skin problems at a time! Adding things without checking to see whether they're duplicating ingredients or if they are compatible will cause you more bad than good. Not all products are compatible and sometimes, active ingredients cancel one another out, or they double up and cause irritation or skin damage. Give your skin a chance, use mild product in the recommended amount, establish a simple skin care routine and if it sounds to go...chances are it is fake! My routine...cleans, tone and moisturize, at night I add eye cream. All the rest is optional!

Nibbles,

The Makeup Artist and The Manicure!

As makeup artists, we are responsible for every single square inch of skin on a model/client body, especially it it's a photo-shoot, advertisement or TV commercial.

The overall look is as important as the close up beauty shot, many make-up artist out there forget that and they are done as soon as the face is done...well I hope they have at least blended the foundation into the neck!

That said, one of the little things that are ofter forgotten are nails...finger nails toe nails...claws... some say that they are not necessary the makeup artist responsibility, but I personally hate chewed out, uneven nails. Sometimes I have been guilty of forgetting, and let the client move on without checking... and more often than not I have regretted the over-sight.

I say that when it comes to the hands and feet the minimum should be: clean and tidy.

No washout blues, chipped out oranges and bite marks!

So... I am going to be the good example and start caring a mini nail kit in my make-up kit...just for those "occasions where the clients nails are going to ruin my day.

What to Carry:

• Alcohol
• Hand Sanitizer
• Nail Polish Remover (Oil free and suitable for both natural and acrylic nails)
• Hand Cream
• Nail and Cuticle Clippers
• Emery Boards
• Cuticle Pusher
• Top Coat
• Nude Polish
• Red Polish
• Soft Toothbrush or nail brush
• Small Bowl
• Buffer
• Cuticle Oil
• 2 or 3 Trendy Colors
• 1 or 2 sets of Stick on Nails/Acrylics for really really bad cases of chewed nails.
  

Great! One more excuse to go out shopping! Now some o

The other side of the coin...if you carry a kit you should know how to use it...
YouTube and google will help, or just pay attention next time someone give you a manicure! I should know I get my nails done....once a month...or every 5 weeks, my nail technician hates me!
The same way I do not believe in shaving or permanently re-styling the model/clients eyebrow, of hair...facial or otherwise...I will not do the full spa manicure. You want a massage? Go to the Experts!

Here are the basics of the basics...must know bare necessities...
1. Remove any old polish.

2. Apply cuticle oil and soak in warm soapy water if required.
3. Gently push back the cuticle using either a cuticle pusher. Practice makes perfect...practice on yourself to avoid damaging someone else's nails!

4. Shape the nails with an emery board. Cut if necessary (this is the case of 4 long nails 3 eaten ones and 2 medium size ones).
5. Lightly buff the nails to prep the nail. (if necessary).

6. Wash Hands.

7. Apply color or clear coat or nothing.

8. Apply hand lotion.

Golden Rules when giving someone else a manicure:

1. Avoid blood

2. Still Avoid Blood!

3. AVOID BLOOD at all cost!!!

4. Wash your hands before you start...

5. Wash and disinfect all tool after each use.
6. Unless you are a licenced and trained nail technician do not go out there and start cutting and chopping people's nails!!

7. If there are any open Wounds. STOP!! Get the client to wear gloves or something...I am not touching blood...and neither should you...

Here are some inspirational images:

Nibbles,

A must have: PHOTO FINISH FOUNDATION PRIMER

There are primers and there are primers.

I accidentally discovered The Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer during one of Sephora's promotions (one of those in store promo where as a member you spend a "certain" amount of money and you get a free gift...) well I got this primer, and I was forever in Love!!

In my mind this is best primer out there, of course if there is something else please let me know... but I doubt it, so far I have tried several and Smashbox has always come up on top.

PHOTO FINISH FOUNDATION PRIMER creates a perfect canvas for any type of foundation application with this silky, lightweight blend of vitamins A & E, grape seed extract and green tea.

This miracle primer helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and pores for flawless skin with a velvety-smooth finish.

How to wear it:

1. Alone with a light brush of powder, for a natural even look

2. Under foundation to increase its longevity

3. On Hair to tame frizzies

So there...I use is for all my work, sometimes I use the "light" version depending on the skin quality of my client/model/person/chihuahua.

Nibbles,

10 Tips to Wake Up like a Super Star.

As a Makeup Artist and Body Painter I have learned fairly quickly that one of the best thing that could happen to me during a photo shoot, event, or simple makeup/body paint application is the skin and attitude of the model...I spend a good amount of time researching and searching and reading and scraping and ... to find the tips and trick that will make life (and my canvas) as "smooth" as possible...

On lifestyle.msn.com I have found "10 Ways To Wake Up Beautiful" SO I tough I would share it with you...

Here is the Wisdom:

1. Get An Early Start.
Make a habit...or a Mantra to wash your face at night a few hours before bed (or at least before you get to bed), do not wait until you are to tired to do this (and then skip it), your skin does not need to sleep with all the toxins and dirt it has accumulated during the day.

"At night there's more blood flow to the skin's surface, and there's nothing else on your face to interfere with absorption," Laurie Polis of N.Y.C.

Heck if you are to tired at least use one of those makeup removing wipes, they are not the best thing, but better than going to sleep with a face full of makeup and wake up looking like a raccoon with broken eyelashes (mascara hardens your lashes..making them more likely to break when you roll around in your pillows).

2. Sleep On Your Back.
Lying on your stomach is bad for your "beauty sleep."
So... try to sleep on your back or on your side...it is said that the average head weighs 7 to 8 pounds that is a lot of pressure to be putting on your face every night.
In fact, many dermatologists say they can tell what side of the face people sleep on by the number of wrinkles there...so avoid Wrincles = Sleeping on your Back.

3. Get A Lift.
Experts recommend sleeping with your head elevated that will allow gravity to help lymph and blood flow so fluid won't accumulate to in your face...this can help avoid waking up all puffy.

4. Save Money, Not Wrinkles.
Saving money is a good habit, and not all products that cost you a fortune are really worth that fortune, but I am a strong believer in night cream...or night eye cream, "at night you don't need to worry about eye treatments smearing your makeup, so slather on the richest formula you can". Apply your richest eye cream at night to thoroughly hydrate your face, this will help conditions lashes and hydrates the delicate eye skin.

5. Sneak A Glow.
This is more for the "fair" skinned but hey, a tip is a tip...
Add a drop of self tanner into your night cream this will add a little extra glow to your eyes, but be careful...1 or 2 drops no more...otherwise you will look like a Raccoon! Plus to much tanning is bad for your skin so this is a once in a while tip...

6. Avoid Carb Face.
To wake with defined cheekbones, eat a high-protein, low-sugar dinner (try salmon and asparagus, a natural diuretic). Skip the rice, pasta and potatoes. Especially for Dinner!

"When our diet's high in glycemic carbohydrates, our features take on a soft, doughy appearance," says Connecticut dermatologist Nicholas Perricone.

7. Wrap It Up.
Wake up and look like a Lion!!! No that is not what we want to do...so to minimize A.M. frizz, sleep on a satin pillowcase or put your hair in a silk scarf.

"Those fabrics are much softer than cotton, so there's less friction," says Harry Josh, a John Frieda stylist.

8. Find Your Inner Ballerina.
Want to have a Glamour model hair...or a least the volume and beautiful waves?
Pile hair into a twist on the top of your head (use a scrunchie to avoid crimping). Think Princess Lea...or something similar.

9. Turn On The Hair Conditioning.
Sleep with a moisturizing treatment in damp hair overnight. Apply an overnight treatment to your ends at least to your ends if you are like me and prone to migraines...rinse off in the morning. Sometimes I just use the leave in conditioner, either way make sure to secure your hair so that you do not smear hair conditioner all over your pillow.

10. Pop A Rooster Pill.
Leave Coffee alone if you can...especially since it can cause cellulite if you do not Exercise...Now this supplement supposedly helps you wake up better in a better mood... A good night's sleep is essential to you looking great during the day, a good night means 7 hours of uninterrupted sleep.

"Trust us, we were skeptical. But after swallowing two Wake Up on Time pills at 11 P.M., we found it much easier to get out of bed seven hours later. Created by a sleep-deprived single mother, the pills contain an energizing blend of thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, vitamins B6 and B12 and guarana-seed extract. It's formulated with a coating that releases ingredients into your bloodstream toward the end of your last sleep cycle, so you wake up feeling clear-headed, not fuzzy."

So here they are all 10 tips on how to Wake Up in the morning and feel like a Super Star.

Nibbles

Tips and Tricks

The law of Foundation…

1. Foundation should be blended below the jaw line!
Many women stop applying foundation to soon creating “the mask look”
They just don't seem to catch this mistake even though they are looking in the mirror when applying their makeup! We all have seen the images of women/girls whit faces that appear paler or brighter than the rest of them!

2. Foundation needs to match your Skin color!
One of the most important rules… you need to pick a foundation color that closely matches your skin color. Not your hands, or your best friend face or the color of the tan you just got. Match the foundation by testing the color in between your Jaw line and your ear.

3. Use a sponge or brush to apply foundation; this will go a long way in helping to blend your foundation line. Wetting the sponge before application will help lighten the foundation feel and using a brush will help minimize foundation streaks.
Apply foundation all the way up to the hair line into the ears and down below the jaw line on the neck to avoid the mask. This of course does not apply to the Geisha look.

Remember that Makeup absorbs light, if you do not apply foundation correctly you will come off having patches or a mask, and if you will be participating in a photoshoot…please avoid Mineral Makeup (this is great for your everyday) but in a photoshot situation the minerals will sparkle…and not in a good way.

Again this is my opinion and what worked for me.

Cheers

Tips and Tricks

To Conceal or Not to Conceal....

Here is what you need to know:

1. Concealer should match your skin tone or be one shade lighter. Please avoid using colors like green or orange if you do not know how...unless it is Halloween.

2. Use it to cover dark circles around the eyes, and any discoloration on the face, pimple etc.... not to draw crop circles on your face...

3. Concealer is not a highlighter.

4. Use it only where needed, and little goes a long way....

5. For extreme cases apply concealer over foundation so it will cover and not be rubbed off, but make sure you blend it in completely.

Please keep in mind there are no set rules to makeup or makeup application, just suggestions or tips....go wild :)

Nibbles

Tips and Tricks

Hot Weather and Face Perspiration....

Our face is often a place on the body that sweats....yes we do...do not deny it...and most of the time we are a bit embarrassed by it.

Sweat normally forms along the hairline and trickles on down to wet the rest of our face, make our foundation run and become gooey...but here is a little trick to help prevent sweat from forming on the face, use a clear gel antiperspirant....don't know where to get it....well use some any-perspirant deodorant :) YES the one that you already have in the bathroom..... Apply some along your hairline, forehead and jaw....just a light coat and if needed around your nose.... This will prevent sweat from beading and forming on the face.

Another Trick it to do a little home chemistry experiment... mix 2 teaspoons baby powder with 1 teaspoon cornstarch....dip a make-up brush into the powder, and apply along the hairline, forehead and jaw....this will also help with the facial perspiration and if any powder shows along the hairline just wipe with a damp cloth.


Stay Cool :)

Tips and Tricks

The Eye are the windows to the soul....of that is what it is said...
What I know is that...

Eye liner helps define and enhance the eyes, it brings them out to the world, but can be tricky and messy to apply, but here is a tip…

Dip an eye liner brush in warm water, then press into powder eye-shadow (whatever color you like…preferably similar to eye liner color) and run along lash line for a goof proof liner, that will also last longer!

Nibbles